Celebrations in the Subcontinent

Syed Ashraf Ali

It was almost at the dawn of memory, back in the days when I was only five years old, that the celebration of Eid first stirred my sensation. It was the night after the 29th Ramadan in 1944. The Shawal moon had not been sighted in the evening in Calcutta and its adjoining areas. No report of moon sighting in any part of British India, which covered today's Bangladesh, India, Pakistan had been reported. We all went to bed somewhat dejected that the much-awaited Eid-ul-Fitr would be delayed. It was in the small hours, at about 3 a.m., that I was certainly awakened by a hue and cry in the street. An unknown person at the back of a motorbike was shouting at the top of his voice with the help of a crude loud speaker known as Chonga. He claimed himself to be a representative of the Khilafat Committee. A good number of middle-aged men and some children were trying their level best to keep pace with the riders in a very jubilant mood.

The news proclaimed by the man was heartening and sensational -- the crescent moon of the month of Shawal, culminating the month-long Siyam of Ramadhan , had been sighted in Peshawar, nearly one and a half thousand miles away from Calcutta, and it would be Eid-ul-Fitr the following day. At that tender age, I simply had no idea what the moon sighting stood for or where Peshawar was situated but I could very well realize that it augmented a festive mood all around. Everybody had woken up and started rejoicing. In the twinkling of an eye, as if by magic, the sleep of the tired Rozdars vanished into thin air and young and old all started preparing themselves for the Eid-ul-Fitr -- the joy of returning to normalcy.

I still wonder if the sighting of the moon in a place as distant as Peshawar could enforce Eid-ul-Fitr throughout the length and breadth of the vast British India, why the sighting of moon in Bongaon in West Bengal, only at a stone's throw from Benapole, will not be valid in Bangladesh? Why man-made divisions of God's land and universe will reign supreme even in matters of religion? The British shackles of bondage could ensure celebration of Eid on one single day in every nook and corner of the vast subcontinent, but the SAARC countries basking in the radiance of freedom and independence today cannot do so due to some unfortunate religious orthodoxy and dogmatism imbued with the ignorance about the true spirit and ideology of the pragmatic religion Islam.

Eid-ul-Fitr brings for Muslims all over the world joy and happiness together with a glorious opportunity to return to normalcy and offer from the core of their hearts gratitude to Benign Providence for kindly providing them with the munificence of Divine Blessing directly from Allah through fasting and prayers and self-restraint during the holy month of Ramadan. Although Eid-ul-Azha is called al-Eid al-Kabir or the Great Festival, it is the Eid-ul-Fitr on the first day of Shawal which enjoys greater popularity among the Muslims in the subcontinent.

It is not that Muslims in this region ignore or make little of the unique sacrifice of Prophets Ibrahim an Ismail (peace be upon them), they also celebrate it in a befitting way on Eid-ul-Azha through sacrifice and prayer -- but people in this subcontinent literally drink the joy of Eid-ul-Fitr to the lees. What is more, since the slaughtering of cows, which the Hindus abhor, does not play any significant role in the celebration of Eid-ul-Fitr, even the Hindus in India and Bangladesh whole-heartedly take part in the festivity and unhesitatingly brush shoulders with their Muslim brethren to share the joy of this auspicious day.

It is a strange phenomenon that all over the subcontinent Muslims somehow forget the sanctity of the holy night of Eid-ul-Fitr which has been marked out in the Hadith as one of the six sacred nights in the Islamic calendar. Almost none passes this holy night through meditation -- all unfortunately fight shy of the divine excellence of this auspicious night and spend it through mere merry-making. The ladies especially remain busy throughout this night preparing sweetmeats and delicacies for the following day.

When Muslims in the subcontinent, whether they are Bangladeshis or Indians or Pakistanis, celebrate Eid-ul-Fitr they all observe the same religious traditions familiar to Muslims all around the world. But as regards social celebration or merriment, they very often have some distinct characteristics and flavour compatible with their national and cultural backgrounds.

The overall picture, however, remains same. As Eid-ul-Fitr dawns, every person, young or old, rich or poor, tries his best to put on new dresses and prepare better and more delicious cuisine to the best of his ability. Like the busy bees buzzing in search of honey, the children, hailed by the holy Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) as the “flowers of Paradise”, run from person to person and door to door to fetch Eidee. Even the adults, especially the Shalas and Shalis and Dewars, try to squeeze as much juice as possible from their Dulabhais and Bhabis. It really turns into a most pleasant and healthy competition, and everybody, including the domestic servant, tries his best to collect as much eidee as possible.

The hotels and restaurants suddenly grab portions of the adjoining footpaths and streets and grow bigger in size overnight. They always have a flourishing business on the Eid days. Although most of the houses on this auspicious occasion are filled with varieties of delicious meals, people love to rush to the hotels and restaurants to change their taste and try some exotic dishes.

In the undivided India, Calcutta (Kolkata), the second largest city in the British empire, used to boast of the largest Eid-ul-Fitr congregation at the Garer Math near the Ochterlony Monument. More than a lakh Musallis would assemble there to say the two-rakah Wajib prayer of Eid-ul-Fitr. It is worth mentioning that almost every year in the forties and the fifties, Syed Badrudduja, a fiery and matchless orator but a beardless Islamic thinker, would throw light upon the ideals and tenets of Islam for nearly half an hour and the vast multitude of namazis would listen to him in rapt attention. Many people from adjoining countries like Afghanistan and Burma would very often come to Calcutta to take part in this massive congregation at the Maidan.

It was on one such occasion that King Amanullah of Afghanistan turned up late for the Eid prayer but he unhesitatingly joined the last row along with his driver and completed his prayer -- an eloquent testimony to the fact that in congregational prayers in Islam there is no difference between king and subject, rich and poor, black and white. All are equal in the eyes of Allah. This historic incident may possibly serve as an eye-opener for those VIPs in Dhaka who reach the Eidgah at the eleventh hour but even then expect to have a place in the first row. What is more, when they find no vacant place in the first row they even have the audacity to express their anger publicly and even threaten the organizers with dire consequences.

In Delhi, a massive congregation, one of the largest in the subcontinent, is held at the huge Jummah Masjid near the Red Fort (both built by the Taj Mahal-famed Emperor Shahjahan). But the largest Eid-ul-Fitr congregation in India is held in Hyderabad where nearly a million assemble to say their prayer.

In Lahore, there is always a huge congregation at the beautiful and majestic Badshahi Mosque built by the same Moghul Emperor Shahjahan. But in Pakistan, as in Bangladesh, people love to say their Eid prayers more at eidgahs than inside the mosques. For example, Quetta in Pakistan is a place of extreme climates. Its winters are long and bitter lasting about five months in total during which time snow-fall is a regular feature. The cold wind battering the city and its neighbourhood come from Afghanistan and are locally referred to as Kandahari Hawa. Spring in Quetta is rather brief but summer is comparatively longer with an intensity of heat that does not match the coldness of winter. But even in such extreme circumstances Eid is celebrated in Quetta in line with the tradition followed in the rest of the subcontinent.

Eid prayers in winter are conducted on open places or eidgahs with the erection of large shamianas to keep out the bitter wind. In summer also, in spite of the intense heat, Eid congregations are held at eidgahs as well as mosques. Such practices as offering eidee to children, visiting friends and relatives and organising community fairs involving local Baluch and Pathan music and dance are an integral part of Quetta society. But the society there is patriarchal with women staying behind closed doors or emerging only under strict purdah such as by the use of Burqa.

The rural women in Bangladesh perhaps enjoy a comparatively greater freedom. Although the purdah system is very much in vogue in the Bangladeshi villages, the women are not forced to wear burqas and can visit the houses of friends and relatives more freely on Eid-ul-Fitr. It is a pity, however, that in the villages of India, Pakistan and Bangladesh the women are still not allowed or encouraged to go to the mosques to say their Eid prayers although the holy Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) himself urged the women to go to the eidgahs to say their prayers.

Visiting graveyards and offering fatehas for the departed souls of the friends and relatives on Eid days is also a common practice in India and Bangladesh. It is, however, less frequent in Pakistan.

The cultural functions or the fairs arranged on the occasion of Eid-ul-Fitr in Pakistan differ to some extent from those in Bangladesh. The community cultural shows in public parks on Eid days are a powerful demonstration of the masculinity that regions like Baluchistan and the NWFP have historically been famous for. In Bangladesh also we have Lathi Khela symbolised by its own rigour on the auspicious days of Eid. It is claimed that only a hundred years ago there were lathials who could wield their lathis with so much dexterity and alacrity that even in rain not a drop would touch their bodies. However, the nature and degree of energy employed in the frontier regions of Pakistan and in the Indian Punjab as well are a good degree higher and more intensive.

As regards celebration of Eid-ul-Fitr there is, however, something unique in Bangladesh which surpasses all other events in beauty and elegance. It is the boat race arranged on different rivers all over this riverine delta. Thousands throng along the river banks in the afternoon of Eid-ul-Fitr to enjoy the spectacular boat races. The boats are decorated with flowers and festoons and balloons. Eight to ten persons, clad in colourful attire, sit on each boat. Their stout bodies, as fresh as the first flowers of springtime, glitter in the sun. The clapping and shouting of their supporters on the river banks boost their spirit and urge them to row fast. The ripples in the water caused by the rhythmic strike of their oars create a cadence as enchanting as the music of moonlit stream. Nowhere in the subcontinent is anything done to celebrate Eid-ul-Fitr which is as fascinating as this riverine symphony.

Syed Ashraf Ali is former DG of Islamic Foundation Bangladesh.

Pakistan

In Pakistan Eid-ul-Fitr is known as chhoti (small) or meethi (sweet) Eid. The sweetness of the Eid day is not just meant in the spiritual sense, but also since this 'Eid traditionally begins with a special-made breakfast which includes the sweet dish known as “sheer-khurma” (dates cooked in milk and served with wheat noodles). When Eid prayers and thanksgivings are over, people hug and congratulate each other and later during the day, they visit relatives, friends, and neighbours.

It is customary for almost everyone to wear new dress on this festive day. Traditionally Pakistani men and women wear the national dress 'Shalwar Qameez'. They come in many different styles, fabrics, colours and patterns which can vary in the different provinces of Pakistan. Young girls and older women wear bangles made of fine glass and also bracelets and hair ornaments of sweet smelling flowers. The special preparations for the Eid dresses, jewellery and food start with the beginning of the month of Ramadan and continue throughout the month. The marketplaces are decorated to welcome Eid shoppers. Special sale prices are offered on garments and shoes.

The night when the Shawwal moon is sighted or “Chand Raat” as it is called, is fixed for shopping and festivity. Womenfolk in huge numbers throng the special bangle stalls and Eid shops as soon as the moon is sighted. Women and girls also traditionally apply lovely and intricate henna patterns to their hands and feet, know as “mehndi” in Pakistan. People go out for the last minute shopping for gifts and sweets that will be given to friends and families. Even outside at the malls and the plazas, there are many colourful lights. There are large crowds in the city and town centers to celebrate the beginning of Eid. Families, especially elders, usually exchange moon greetings.

Eid is celebrated as a family and social event. After attending the mosque in the early morning, family members and relatives visit each other, attend many joyous parties, feasts, special carnivals and parks (with picnics, fireworks, etc.), and exchange gifts with each other. In Pakistan many bazaars, malls, and restaurants get crowded with people and there is activity and excitement everywhere.

For the children it is a very happy day because they receive money from all the elders to spend and enjoy themselves. They also can receive clothes or gifts. Employees get bonuses, factories and offices close down for a couple of days, and food and money are distributed to the poor who also share in the festivities. Because it marks the end of Ramadan, Eid-ul-Fitr is always an occasion for a big meal and families come together to give thanks to Allah and to celebrate.