Dhaka Monday October 27, 2003. E-mail: starheritage@thedailystar.net

 
BHAWAL RAJAS' TEMPLES

Archs & domes of tradition

Kali Narayana, which resembles the pagodas of a buddhist temple is sacred to the Arakani Maghs. Its features are most striking. The first of the many temples is an octagonal spire and the smallest and simplest on the compound

 

Joydevpur, 30km north of Dhaka city, was the headquarters of the famous zaminders of Bhawal, who had the tradition of doing things in a grand style. The first chief of Bhawal was Fazal Ghaz, whose descendant received a jaigir of 22 Parganas in Eastern Bengal from Emperor Akbar. The estate remained in the family of the Ghazi who settled at Kaliganj till the time of Daulat Ghazi, who received the first settlement in 1645.

Daulat Ghazi failed to carry out proper supervision over his affairs; his revenues were not paid regularly and it is alleged that the Mughal authorities deprived him of the zaminderi and settled it with his Hindu servants. His zamindari has been passing through the hands of Hindu zaminders who were originally the Dewans of Daulat Ghazi. The first Hindu raja of Bhawal was Kush Dhhaja Ray who settled here in 1738. After him the Bhawal estate has been owned by his descendants for long and a number of monumental buildings like palaces, temples, schools and dispensaries have been made.

Not far from the Bhawal Rajbari on the southern bank of Chilai River, there is a group of six temples at Shashanghat, said to be made by the Bhawal Rajas. The largest and oldest of them is the temple of Raja Kali Narayana Roy, most probably built in the late 19th century. Kali Narayana was a great zaminder of Bhawal. The temple is about 28ft square building with a seven foot wide portico on the east. It is divided in nine sections, interconnected by archways, with the middle one having only one opening on the east. It is the garbhagriha of the temple, housing a pedestal of Sivalinga.

It is a pancha-ratna type temple. Its ratnas are composed of several tapering domes with a sharp spire top. Its central spire has five narrow domes and the corner spires have three. The plan of the first storey of the temple recalls the Muslim tomb architecture. To divide the tomb in nine sections was a popular Mughal tradition. The tomb of Bibi Pari in Dhaka and the tomb of Niamatullah Wali in Chapainawabganj are arranged in nine sections. In India, the tomb of Itmadudaulah of Agra was erected in the same style. The fluted arch of the temple, ribbed domes and the merlon designs came from the Mughal tradition.

The most striking feature is found in the outlook of the temple of Kali Narayana, which resembles the Buddhist temple pagoda, the sacred building of the Arakani Maghs. From the north of the raja Kali Narayana's temple, the first temple is an octagonal spire, measuring 4 feet 2 inches of each side. This is the smallest and simplest temple of this compound.

The second temple from the north is said to be made in memory of Kali Narayans's wife. It is a rectangular temple measuring 22x12 feet with a spire, composed of decreasing domes and a pointed tower. The temple is divided in six chambers, interconnected by archways. There is a pedestal of Sivalinga in the middle chamber of the western part of the temple.

The next adjoining southern temple is an octagonal structure with a pointed tower. Each side of the octagon measures 12.5 feet. The temple has an octagonal garbhagriha in the centre of 8.5-foot wide verandah. The western half of the octagon is a chamber, while the eastern half of the temple is surrounded by a colonnade.

In the south stands another temple, with its rectangular chamber divided in three sections. On the eastern side is a verandah and on the western part are two rooms. Its northern one was used as garbhagriha. There is still a pedestal of Sivalinga. On top of this room is another room built in a pancha ratna style. The ratnas of the four sides are small and attached to the main spire.

The third and the last temple is a structure built on a high plinth of 20.5 feet square, made of sand stone. The garbhagriha of the temple has been made in the centre of the square. A colonnade surrounds three sides of this room, while the fourth (west) side of it is a chamber. The temple has an inscription above the arch opening of the garbhagriha. The language of the inscription is Bangla. According to the inscription, Srimati Surujbala Devi installed a Raneswarsiva in memory of her husband Kumar Ranendra Narayan.

The Department of Archaeology does not protect the temples. Lack of proper care has left them dilapidated. If taken care of, it could turn out to be an attractive tourist spot for people from home and abroad.
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Story & photo : Babu Ahmed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  (C) The Daily Star, 2003.