Nirob -- a silent caterer since 1956
Durdana Ghias
"Many customers ask me why the name of the restaurant is 'nirob' ('silent' in Bangla). My answer is this place becomes 'shorob' ('lively' in Bangla) only for two hours at lunch time -- from 1:30 to 3:30pm. The rest of the time it remains silent," said Jamil Master, manager of Nirob Restaurant, affectionately known as 'Master' by neighbours and customers.For last 50 years Nirob has been providing catering services in the same old manner in an Old Dhaka alley. Most customers of Nirob are students of BUET, Dhaka Medical College (DMC), Dhaka University (DU), local businessmen and office workers. On days of general strikes called by political parties, the restaurant becomes deserted because offices and universities are kept closed. Rainy season is another setback as the street in front of the restaurant goes three feet under water. "We come to Nirob whenever we feel like eating out and also on special occasions like celebrating a friend's birthday. This is a place where we can find good food at a reasonable price," said Rashid, a DU student. "Although I am very busy with my work, I come here with my family whenever I find the time. I enjoy the scrumptious bhortas of Nirob," said Rana, a businessman. Vegetable items are Nirob's main attractions. The menu offers at least 60 items here. The ground floor of the restaurant is for breakfast and snacks which opens at 6:30 in the morning. The first and second floors are for lunch and dinner and opens at 12 noon. These two floors were built 17 years ago. Sometimes a few foreigners venture into Nirob to taste some true deshi dishes like the legendary bhorta, bhaji and a variety of vegetable items, said Master. Taking this fact into consideration the second floor was made air conditioned but is open to all. Around 40 people work here as waiters and they get free meals and a place to sleep. "These are poor people who come from rural areas looking for work in the city. When they come to me I cannot say 'no'. I give them food and shelter for five days to assimilate and then if they like to stay I take them on," said Master. Nirob had to drop many delicious items from menu as those became too expensive and scarce in the market. These are the various kinds of 'fish' dishes -- peti of chitol , dopeyaja of shol , kopta of foly , pabda, and koi. "We cannot increase the price of food items in spite of spiraling price of essentials because 75 percent of our customers are DU, DMC, and BUET students," said Master. "Many of them stay in the residential halls where the quality of food is very bad. If we try to increase price the students complain," he added. "Nirob is like my baby. I have been working here since I was a child. I spent almost my entire life here. I saw it growing from a tiny snacks outlet to a three-storey restaurant. I always try hard to save Nirob in the face of political unrest, spiraling prices, scarcity of drinking water and persisting load shedding," he further said.
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