Feature

Internationally, coffee is one of the most popular beverages. Estimates indicate an annual global consumption of over 400 billion cups of coffee. In commodity business, coffee ranks second only to petroleum in terms of dollars traded worldwide. It is a giant global industry employing more than 20 million people.

Coffee plants were first located growing wild in the highland forests of Kaffe, in Ethiopia (known as Abyssinia in ancient times). Coffee derived its name from Kaffe, the place of origin of wild coffee berries. Today, Ethiopia produces some high quality arabicia coffees (Coffeea arabica) as well as cheap robustas (Coffea canephora). Yet Ethiopia is not the country that comes to mind when the average consumer thinks of coffee.

A popular legend narrates that Kaldi, a goat herder, observed his goats acting frisky after eating berries from a bush. Being curious of this incident, Kaldi himself ate the berries and discovered the invigorating and exhilarating effects of the berries. The news of this fruit spread fast throughout the region. Hearing about this energy-laden fruit, the monks dried the berries, reconstituted these in water and drank the liquid to provide stimulation for a more awakened time for prayer.

No one knows exactly when coffee was discovered. However, there is evidence to suggest that sometime between 575 AD and 850 AD, a nomadic mountain tribe called Galla used to ground coffee seeds and mix it with animal fat. The mixture was easy to eat when travelling. The warriors of this tribe also ate the mixture to increase their stamina during battle. Even today, the mixture is prepared and consumed in the Kaffe and Sidamo regions of Ethiopia.

Coffee berries were transported from Ethiopia to the Arab world. From there, coffee travelled to Turkey. It was here that coffee beans were roasted for the first time over open fires. The roasted beans were crushed and then boiled in water, creating a crude version of the beverage enjoyed today.

Later, the Venetian trade merchants brought coffee to Europe. It was only in the 18th Century that coffee found its way to the Americas, when a French infantry captain brought one small plant that he nurtured during his long journey across Atlantic. This one plant, transplanted to Martinique in the Caribbean, became the predecessor of over 19 million trees on the island within 50 years. It was from this humble beginning that the coffee plant found its way to the rest of the tropical regions of South and Central America.

Soon coffee houses were opened and spread quickly across countries. These places became centres for meeting friends, relaxation and intellectual exchanges.

Of late, a different trend has begun. In place of traditional coffee houses, western-style coffee shops have begun sprouting up everywhere from Mexico City to Shanghai. Seattle-based Starbucks is the leading pack with nearly 3000 outlets in about 37 countries. Starbucks and other similar brands customize their shops and services to cater to the interests and tastes of local customers. They charge a premium price for the ambience and coffee-drinking experience they provide. In fact, a cup of coffee in one of these shops would cost about twice as much as in a traditional local establishment.

When enjoying the morning cup of coffee or taking a soothing sip in the evening, have you ever thought of the long journey of coffee from its home in Ethiopia to the rest of the world how wild berries in one corner of Africa grew to transform into a popular international beverage? Indeed amazing. Perhaps the modern globalisation gurus would coin this travelogue of coffee “Grow Locally, Serve Globally”.