Of Slow Scrabbling and Fast-breaking 
                  
                Neeman 
                  A Sobhan
                "A-M-E-N-T-I-A.........YES! 
                  I have a seven letter word!” Late afternoon of a lazy Sunday, 
                  the slow slide to 'Iftaar', a game of Scrabble to accelerate 
                  the sun's declension, and a seven letter word glowing on my 
                  letter-tile rack: life is beautiful!
                “What the 
                  hell is 'amentia'? No such word, unless you mean 'dementia'.” 
                  My husband is understandably sullen. He can't stand Scrabble, 
                  is not fasting so he doesn't need to kill time, he is losing, 
                  and on top of that, his wife is crowing with a seven-letter 
                  word: his life sucks! 
                “It also 
                  means mental disorder,” I mumble. “Says who?” He grumbles. “The 
                  Official Scrabble Player's Dictionary.” My stomach rumbles, 
                  but I'm smiling as I eye the board. But wait! The only possible 
                  way I can use my prized noun is to attach it to an 'S,' hopefully 
                  hanging at the end of a pre-existing word on the board, like 
                  a hook ready to haul up my awesome score. No luck! But there 
                  is a 'HE' in an open space. I juggle my letters and roll gibberish 
                  sounds in my mouth. 
                “How about 
                  ANTHEMIA?” I ask myself aloud. “What the hell is 'anthemia,' 
                  unless you mean 'anathema'?” My sullen spouse growls. I howl, 
                  “Oh! No! That still leaves my 'E' unused! And for your information 
                  'anthemia' means some Greek floral design. Stupid word!” “So 
                  it's not a seven-letter word? Oh! Then I think 'anthemia' is 
                  a fine, classy sounding word. Use it.” “Scrabble is NOT about 
                  using words because they are fine or classy,” I grit my teeth, 
                  my mind mouthing other scrambled options. 
                My fast 
                  is telling on me; my faith in a rational world, where tiles 
                  with the seeds of a seven-letter-word hiding in them are obliged 
                  to bear fruit, is rapidly diminishing, when I spy an 'R' in 
                  an empty space, and in almost spiritual ecstasy I make 'ANIMATER', 
                  turning to my husband in triumph. Ah! It's almost sundown and 
                  I have made a seven-letter word: there is justice in this world 
                  after all. 
                He ignores 
                  me and starts putting down 'EXACT' with the valuable 'X' on 
                  a double-letter square. I hate to admit it, but that's not bad 
                  at all. But wait! He adds on an 'A' at the end, covering a double- 
                  word square, too. I am grim: “And what exactly, or if you'll 
                  excuse my Italian accent, what exacta is 'EXACTA'?” He is prim: 
                  “It's a type of horse racing bet.” “Says who?” I bark, my post-seven-letter-word 
                  formation after-glow vanishing faster than the sunlight. My 
                  husband beams pinkly like a pre-Iftaar horizon: “Says your holy 
                  book.” “What?” My tea-deprived brain is pulsating feebly in 
                  my intestines. “Your Official Scrabble Dictionary.” So, for 
                  my hard earned 50 he has acquired a quick 44: there is no justice 
                  in this world!
                 
                  ***
                I look at 
                  the clock, it's time to break the fast and put away the scrabble 
                  board. And another uncharacteristic day of Ramadan in Rome is 
                  over. And this is the thing. There is actually nothing either 
                  characteristic, uncharacteristic or memorable about a Roman 
                  Ramadan (or as I always think of it, RAMZAN, however the Arabs 
                  may pronounce it). Ramzan has no special feel in Rome, unless 
                  I make it so. It is just another month here. In Bangladesh, 
                  everyone is aware of its arrival, significance and special-ness; 
                  each household is geared towards the fasting month, sensitised 
                  to the keepers of the fast. At both the social and commercial 
                  level the environment provides support, solidarity, colour and 
                  vibrancy. 
                Here, I 
                  am in the minority. Surrounded by non-Muslims into whose non-Ramadan 
                  affected calendars I have to fit myself into, the routines of 
                  business as usual with lunches and of programmes that overlap 
                  the Iftar time and extend into the post-Fast fatigue period 
                  makes the fasting month harder than usual. I try to continue 
                  my regular life in spite of fasting, but an environment where 
                  no one is aware of the special exigencies of my situation, it 
                  is not easy. While fasting, I have attended un-avoidable lunches, 
                  but the constant explaining to the hostess or other guests (“You 
                  mean not even a drop of water?” or from the Hindu Indians, whose 
                  concept of fasting is more permissive, the insistent “A cup 
                  of milk or some fruit?”) is tiring and boring. 
                At restaurants 
                  I feel like a spoilsport and have no one to share my momentary 
                  pangs with, but I still try to keep in step and not bring attention 
                  to myself, lest people become over-solicitous and uncomfortable 
                  as with someone who is ill among a group of merry makers. Once 
                  upon a time, when the sun went down at nine, I even attended 
                  operas, ballets and dinners, quietly and surreptitiously breaking 
                  my daylong fast and wishing I lived in a Ramadan-friendly environment. 
                  I have had to take non-fasting visitors around town all day 
                  long, while pretending that my fasting did not in any way come 
                  in the way. The other option is for me to guard my fasting state 
                  like a secret till it's time to break it, at which point people 
                  feel guilty. It's a no-win situation. To make matters worse, 
                  everyone tells you to stop fasting because you are looking so 
                  wretched, so you smile more broadly and try to be more energetic, 
                  exhausting yourself further. Ideally, I would love to exile 
                  myself from the world during this month and immerse myself in 
                  restful prayer and blissful un-worldliness. But that's being 
                  indulgent and impractical. No, fasting in a non-faster's world 
                  is neither easy nor pleasurable. 
                By pleasure, 
                  I mean enjoying the special-ness of this season and savouring 
                  the spiritual, cultural (and food-related) bonds with a community 
                  of fellow Muslims. Of course, in Rome, there are Muslims abounding, 
                  but not within my immediate social circle. There are Iranians, 
                  Arab Muslims and African Muslims whom I know, but they are culturally 
                  so distant from Bengalis, to whom things like Iftaar and Sehri 
                  mean totally different things. For example, a Tunisian acquaintance 
                  of mine wouldn't dream of having anything but soup for Iftaar, 
                  to whom our Bengali 'Pyaju' or 'chola-boot' meant nothing. My 
                  Bangladeshi and Pakistani friends are few and live far. I am 
                  the only one that fasts in my home, so breaking the fast at 
                  5:15 pm is a lonely and ordinary business. Normally, I literally 
                  have breakfast for my 'break-fast', consisting of my favourite 
                  egg, toast and tea! On weekends, we make a special attempt and 
                  indulge in Bengali delicacies, but the atmosphere is not spontaneous, 
                  but a conscious attempt on my part to reproduce a meal that 
                  has lost its relevance, belonging to a world that has receded 
                  into the past.
                When my 
                  sons were at home, I allowed the memories to be charged with 
                  the creative force of nostalgia, which prompted me to recreate 
                  for them my childhood world of Ramzan. So, even though I do 
                  not like nor take Sehri, I remembered how special and exciting 
                  it was to me as a child, being woken up for this secret feast 
                  at a mysterious hour. So, I did it a few times with my sons, 
                  on weekends. Now, by myself, there is no cultural pantomime. 
                  For me, this is an austere month, and fasting is just an obligation 
                  to be fulfilled. Ramadan has lost its frills, and its cultural 
                  aspects have faded from lack of use and of participants.
                It's a bit 
                  like my dusty Scrabble board, a game that only I take out to 
                  use and which I play by myself, being in turns both team A and 
                  B! My husband joined in today, and reluctant though he was as 
                  a player and reluctant also to admit it, I think he did enjoy 
                  himself. Today Scrabble, tomorrow, who knows, he might even 
                  join me in… what is that seven-letter-word I'm thinking of…F-A-S-T-I-N-G!